Latest Podcast Episodes!

Episode 23: Paint Prep

Episode 23: Paint Prep And.....we're back! Hey guys, so sorry for the delay in new episodes over the last month or so. We've all been super busy throughout the start of the summer. RaceTech moving into new offices, Jarred & Brady working on new bikes, it all adds up.  So finally we're covering Paint Prep, a topic we've been asked about before.  Our paint guru Brady Young covers most of the steps for paint prep, and Jared and Evan bring up some good questions.  We also cover some recent emails and questions at the end. Prep notes for this show:

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Episode 22: 'How to Build a Cafe Racer Guide' Review

Episode 22: 'How to Build a Cafe Racer Guide' Review Awhile back, we posted this article after a listener told us about Jim March's "How to Build a Cafe Racer" guide. We skimmed through it, but never really went over it in detail or discussed it.  After we all read the document in depth we saw it had some really good points to discuss. Make sure to download the document below and follow along to the podcast with it. Jim March's Cafe Racer Guide (PDF) We'd like to mention that all credit for this document goes to Jim March. He definitely put alot of work into compiling all this information. In this show we are using his advice as talking points to discuss, and we are not criticizing him or saying he is wrong. You are listening to our opinions on his opinions! Jim has a link in his document to tip him if you found the document helpful, but the WePay link does not work any longer. His email is in the document and it sounds like he welcomes feedback. So, what do you think?

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Episode 21: All About Suspension w/ Ed Sorbo from Lindeman Engineering

  Episode 21: All About Suspension w/ Ed Sorbo from Lindeman Engineering If you're a couple episodes behind, you don't want to miss this one! We met Ed Sorbo, owner of Lindeman Engineering at Deus Ex Machina's Saturday School event in April. Ed had a booth at Saturday School and was leading excellent suspension seminars that drew a crowd every time.  We were very excited to have him join us on the show and talk in depth about suspension. Note: this is our first show recording a remote guest via Skype. There are a few sound quality issues due to our old computer hardware. We'll be upgrading soon to be able to record remote guests with much better quality. Make sure to contact Ed at Lindeman Engineering for any of your suspension needs! Make sure to tell him you heard his Motorbike Mondays episode. Lindemann Engineering 700 East Redlands Blvd. Ste U Box 410 Redlands, CA 92373 (909) 838-4587

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Episode 20: Top End Rebuilds Part 2

Episode 20: Top End Rebuilds Part 2 Episode 20 continues with Part 2 of our series on Top End Rebuilds. We pick up where we left off after describing disassembly of your motor to prepare for a top end rebuild. This episode covers the tools necessary to rebuild your top end and the steps to prepare your motor for final reassembly. It's recommended you have listened to Episode 19 before starting this show. Notes for this episode: Assembly Piston skirt scoring: Debris between cylinder and piston Motor ran hard before at operating temperature Rebore Will discuss next episode Pistons Thoroughly clean piston ring grooves, if using same pistons Install new piston rings in appropriate orientation While installing piston to connecting rod, be aware of piston orientation mark on top of piston Slide wrist pin through piston and connecting rod and insert wrist pin clip Deglazing/honing: Adding a surface for the new rings to break in Oil the cylinder wall thoroughly and tool With triton hone or ball hone on drill move tool up and down through cylinder at a constant quick motion Remove tool out of cylinder whilst still in motion Removing old gaskets: Gasket scraper Razorblade Scotchbrite pad on

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Episode 19: Top End Rebuilds Part 1

Episode 19: Top End Rebuilds Part 1 Episode 19 is part 1 in our series about rebuilding the top end of your motor. This episode will cover disassembly of your top end, and goes over the important components of the motor top end as well. Make sure to listen to Part 1 before moving onto the new Episode 20, part 2 of Top End Rebuilds. Check out the notes below for the important points to follow. Episode 19 Outline/Notes: What is a Top End? The top end of a motor is anything from the cylinders and up Why? To replace worn or damaged parts Performance upgrades Burning oil She's just tired Engine in or out? Not all bikes require you to remove the motor from the bike May be easier to rebuild it on a workbench Where to start? Remove gas tank Remove air intake and carburetors Remove exhaust Remove cables (clutch cable, tach cable) Drain fluids (oil, coolant) Disconnect battery Remove spark plugs and wires If it's connected to the motor, disconnect or remove it Removing the head: Check manual for proper process to relieve pressure off of valve train Remove cam(s), rockers, or cam followers Remove head bolts/nuts Remove heads Removing valve springs and valves: With the appropriate valve sprin

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Episode 17: Valve Adjustments


Episode 17: Valve Adjustments

Let’s talk about valves. Well, listen to the start of the episode…not valves exactly, but valve adjustments! This is a critical maintenance item that often gets overlooked or put off, because you don’t know how to do it. To a newer rider/home mechanic, valves and valve adjustments can often seem like black magic.  However, it just takes a little bit of understanding how the system works, and why they need adjustment to get up the courage to attack this job yourself.  Make sure to listen all the way through, and refer to this post for the examples we mention.  I’ll post all our notes from the episode, so you can easily follow along.

Why adjust valves?
As metal heats and cools, it expands and contracts.  The specified gap is to allow for the metal to expand.

Tight valves: too little clearance between the valve stem/shim/bucket and the cam/rocker
-Valves won’t fully seat on the valve seat in head
-Valves expel most of it’s heat from the valve seat, if the valve is not fully seated to the head it could cause a burnt or melted valve

Loose valves: too much of a clearance between the valve stem/shim/bucket and the cam/rocker
-The valve train components will hammer on the valve every time it opens
-Ticking sound/noise

Getting to the adjustment:
-Remove gas tank
-Remove spark plugs (optional, but recommended)
-Remove tappet covers/valve cover/rocker boxes
-Rotate crankshaft or flywheel to Top Dead Center (TDC, T, 1-4 T) for that cylinder on the compression stroke
-Check if component is loose

Rocker Arm Type – Nut and Tappet
-Check clearance between screw adjuster and tip of the valve stem w/ feeler gauge, record gap
To adjust:
-Loosen locknut
-Slide in appropriate feeler gauge
-Adjust screw adjuster til the feeler is snug
-Tighten locknut
-Double-check the clearance – the adjuster can tighten gap as you tighten the locknut

Shim Type
If you need .10mm and you have .05mm clearance with a 270 (2.70mm) shim, you will need to replace that 270 shim with a 265 (2.65mm) shim. The 265 shim is thinner so that would add .05mm to your current valve clearance to give you .10mm clearance.
-When removing the valve cover, be careful not to tear the paper gasket.
-While on TDC on the compression stroke, measure the clearance of each valve between the cam lobe and the shim/bucket. Intake and exhaust.
-Some shim type systems have what looks like a rocker arm, in this case they are called cam followers.
-Write down these measurements down in relation to each valve per cylinder.

Removing Shim Over Bucket Type
Rotate the bucket til the notch is facing outwards
Rotate crank til the cam lobe presses down on shim and shim bucket
Use shim tool to hold the edge of the shim bucket in place
Rotate crank again til the cam lobe is out of the way
With a thin flathead screwdriver, pop the shim out of the shim bucket
Write down the shim size & the corresponding valve (ie: cylinder 1, Intake)
Shim number will be on the bottom. If not legible measure with calipers: 2.70mm = 270 shim

Be careful not to force anything. If it feels like it’s binding, it is.

If it doesn’t need to be adjusted, don’t remove it.
After all shims are removed, do the math to replace them with the appropriate shim number.

Clearance Specified: .10mm
Clearance Measured: .05mm
Current Shim: 270 (2.70mm)
Difference: .05mm
Replacement Shim: 265 (2.65mm)

Formula to calculate Shim Needed:
(all numbers are in mm, except for Shim Needed, which is in shim number. ex: 270)

Shim # Needed = [ [Current Shim (mm)] – [Clearance Spec (mm)] – [Clearance Measured (mm)] ] x 100

Example decreasing shim with numbers:
Clearance Specified: .10mm
Clearance Measured: .05mm
Current Shim: 270 (2.70mm)
Difference: .05mm
Replacement Shim: 265 (2.65mm)

=[2.70 – .10 – .05] x 100
=[2.65] x 100
= 265 Shim Needed

Example increasing shim with numbers:
Clearance Specified: .10mm
Clearance Measured: .15mm
Current Shim: 270 (2.70mm)
Difference: -.05mm
Replacement Shim: 275 (2.75mm)

=[2.70 – .10 – (-.15)] x 100
=[2.70 -.10 + .15] x 100
=[2.75] x 100
= 275 Shim Needed

Shim Under Bucket Style
Same process, only cams have to be removed to remove shims

Where to get shims
Where to get shims
Unused shims
Mechanic shops/ swapping shims
Buy new at various retailers


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